Breathtaking Bruges (Brugge)
Part 1
Upon my first glance out my taxi-cab window confirmed what I had imagined before even arriving: Bruges was my kind of place.
My feet hit the cobblestone streets of this gorgeous time-capsule of a town within minutes of arriving. It was like stepping out of my favorite Dutch Baroque cityscape painting, the architecture, wealth and beauty in exquisite timeless detail.
A post-rain haze glazed the city, casting a shadow of mystery and intrigue rather than dampening our just-arrived excitement. With sweeping views of the city's canal, the Hotel Tur Duinen welcomed us with a tiny but warm lobby, handing over our room keys with a smile. A peak at the sitting area and breakfast room with antique rush-seats built anticipation for the promised "one of the best in Bruges" breakfast that lived up to its claim.
Pomme frites (french fries), mussels, world-famous Belgian beer, chocolate and waffles were on our mind, and within a few hours we had consumed at least half of our must-taste list.
A local woman spontaneously struck up a conversation with us as we strolled the streets, suggesting the main square, the Markt (market), as the place to find the best french fries. (And we did.) She also assured us that we "couldn't go wrong" at any restaurant in Bruges, and we were beginning to believe that statement applied to more than just food.
When in doubt, start exploring any new town from the main piazza/square/market. It's always a good starting point, as it was here in Bruges. Side-streets offering hours of fashion, food, history and most importantly, chocolate, cobwebbed off this bull's eye of a city-center making a decent map a necessity. (Most hotels or shops will offer you a fold-up paper version.) Following the original medieval street patterns, roads curve and dead-end, cross the curving canal with Monet-like arched bridges that splices and circles the city, basically going every where but following a grid-pattern. Delight in getting lost; there is no "wrong turn" in Bruges.
You may lose direction, but you definitely won't get lost in translation.
Everyone in this city speaks English, along with Flemish (dialect of Dutch), French, Dutch, and even some Italian and German. The friendly sweater-clad classic European looking man with glasses resting on his nose at the wonderful Het Brugs Theehuis (tea rooms and tea shops abound) spoke 4 languages. He was also an expert on the loose teas offered for sale, and I quickly found myself splurging on an aromatic organic black-berry blend and unusual sweet-savory mint blend. Had I extra room in my luggage, I would have added a gorgeous Asian cast-iron tea pot as well.
Be warned: this is a city that ignites wants. You will want to drink, eat and acquire your way through this charming town.
Heirloom lace linen stores, an historic craft of Bruges, are on every block. Before you know it, you'll be plopping down a pretty penny (or many euros) on a hand-laced tablecloth with matching cloth napkins. (Just ask my friend Laura.)
Beating out lace, is chocolate. Glass-fronted stores chock-full of dreamy mouth-watering sweets tempt you until you say "Mercy!" and buy, buy, buy. Bright bows, pretty wrapping, clever shapes and tantalizing flavors will have you hooked on Belgian chocolate, so hooked we became repeat visitors at our favorite chocolatier, Dumon. (More on that later.)
It's as if you enter a dream-book bubble of Medieval grandeur that whiles you away to countless hours pleasantly escaping "The World." Time stops, life is far-far away, and for a few days you can live in a euphoric vacuum of vacation bliss.
Ok, maybe my joy at having my first kid-free travel adventure with a great friend got to my head!
Really, for me, chocolate and beer, french-fries and waffles, with fantastic shopping in a scenic architectural gem, and topped by easy-going gracious people (they ride bikes everywhere!)... Well, that's just a match made in heaven, or Bruges, for me.
Count me love-struck.
Bruges is beautiful, historic yet modern and fresh. Quaint but diverse, lovely and sincerely beguiling. I don't think anyone can resist her allure.
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You must see the collection of pictures I took here and here.
Also, more blog entries to follow including mouth-watering details on the foods of Bruges, the best way to view the city (hint: the canals), and the perks of being not the least bit shy - you meet interesting people along the way! Stay tuned...
Thanks Laura for a fantastic trip!





Tuesday, November 3, 2009 at 09:10AM
Reader Comments (1)
Look amazing and sounds like a ton of fun! Jealous over here! I'd be really jealous if you had shots of certain climbing area's near there. Next trip... gotta do some climbing too!